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What are we doing wrong?
Currently using a DeWalt stud finder model d0150 with ac volt detection and it seems like no matter where on this wall we check the AC volt detection indicated by the red light on the right, is active. Is it possible for this entire wall to not be usable for nailing something up? Has anyone encountered this issue before?
Discussion
Oh please stop going up and down
I had to scroll away, It was like watching someone scratch their nails down a chalkboard.
Seriously like they just start going in circles at some point. Looking for those round studs I guess?
But studs are horizontal, aren't they?
/s
I had a horizontal stud in a wall I was mounting a tv to. Took me a few minutes to figure it out but that tv is NEVER going to fall off that wall.
Tip: use a magnetic stud finder!
Only when I'm laying down
Fire stops
It’s better when she goes up and down.
Not with that choke grip
Yank it like she’s starting the lawn mower..
Yeah that was annoying me too lol
There trying to show that the stud finder is indicating that there is AC present. She isn't looking for the studs.
But what if the framing crew had the foresight to put in blocking to hang a TV on?? Huh?
If it’s there. You paid for it.
LEFT TO RIGHT!! LEFT TO RIGHT!!
Put it on the wall then push the button
Are you holding the button down before placing it on the wall? That could throw things off.
are you hitting the button before it’s flush on the wall?
You can’t lift them up even a lil
You need to move it back and forth slowly over a span of 16-24 inches
You can’t “start” them away from the wall
Thanks for coming to my Ted talk
You need to push the button and point it at yourself first. Then say, "yep, it works"
Pretty sure that's a textbook calibration step
The one-two punch is to then hold it against your friend, push the button, and then audibly speculate on why it didn't buzz.
Hate those things. Seems like everything is and electrified stud. I've wasted so much time mucking about with them. Now I use a magnet to find nails in studs and context clues to avoid electric and other things. I also have a small USB scope cam that I got for like $30 so I can pop a small hole and look in if I'm really worried.
We have a super old house with lath and plaster. Stud finders stuggle…
That was my first thought too. I've tried using one at my place and it's never had any luck.
It gets even worse when the plaster is embedded in metal mesh.
Have you tried the deep scan setting on them?
I’ve never needed to use one on lathe and plaster, but there’s usually two to three modes even on the cheapo ones for different types of walls.
It's probably been mentioned, but you are also moving too fast.
Why would you take time to post this instead of just reading the manual. Dodo
Left to right, not up and down
You have to go back and forth. It senses the difference in density. So you need to swipe one way and then back the other. Moving around at random isn't going to get you anywhere.
Move a magnet around till it sticks to a screw. It’ll be in a stud.
This is what I've always done and it works.
Unless it's a pipe
After it sticks see if it sticks 6 inches above or below. If it doesn’t probably not a pipe. A screw is a single point
Nice, thanks for the tip!
Dewalt makes great stuff - minus their stud finders. Buy a Zircon. $60 worth every penny
Stud finders are garbage. Just need to knock and drill with a small pilot to find the studs
Since you know the model number, look up the instructions. You probably have to calibrate it while holding it against the wall, and after setting it for the thickness of your wall board. And then you have to move slowly across the wall from one side toward the other.
Every time you power it back on, you’ll have to do the calibration again.
You didn't read the instructions
"What are we doing wrong".......using a stud finder
You have to hold it flush to your chest first, hit the button on yell “oh, found one!” Then do the same thing on the wall
Looks like they’re using a stud finder like you would an Ouija Board!🤣🤣🤣🤣
Similarly trustworthy results.
Calibrate it by handing it to the nearest male near you.
And be sure to say “found one”
You have to make the beep sound
This isn't a sexist thing, every male knows exactly what to do when handed a studfinder.
“FoUnD oNE11!111”
I had this one and it sucks. I spent $60 and got a better one after drilling a million extra test holes.
I have encountered that before in a 1950's built home. Turned out to be a wire in wall when they bricked home.
Electrical Sockets and switches are nailed to studs.
With the sensor off place the sensor on the wall left or right about 8" of where the socket/ switch
Turn on the sensor on wait a second and slide slowly towards the socket or switch it should pick up the stud inline with the left or right side of the socket
How old is your house? I am asking because my century home appears to have a metal mesh like thing on which the plaster is attached. There are holes in the mesh. To put in a nail seems to be a matter of luck.
I haven't opened all the walls, but a number that have crumbled due to damage seem to have that underneath. I do have a brick house also.
Get one of the super magnets. Run it along the wall till it finds a nail or screw. Mark it, measure from it and repeat. I also like to go up and down from the nail / screw till I find another just to confirm there’s a stud there.
Start from where you know the stud is……next to a outlet
Move in one horizontal motion across the way not like your trying to give it a shiatsu.
Read the manual
Check your plugs on the wall ... they'll be attached to the stud.
What does the manual say?
Use slower movements when pressed against the wall
Press it against the wall. Then press the button and move it slowly horizontally. You don’t need to rub it all over the wall.
I have this exact model. You need to activate it on the wall, don’t move up and down, just left and right. If you want to do up and down you should rotate 90 degrees the device. This model isn’t the best, I have a lot of false positive with electricity and it doesn’t notice all stud. I recommend using a small nail as final validation.
Using the tool. That’s what’s wrong. You didn’t read directions
Just knock on wood
Are you in an appartment? If this is a party wall then stud finders have a really hard time figuring out what's going on behind thay wall since they're not made like a regular wall.
Release
I have only had luck with franklin stud finders
Well you're a woman and that's a tool..... .....
I have a different model. Sometimes have to put my palm on the wall the eliminate false electrical alarm. It is weird but it will be on and I place my palm down next to it and it stops.
Just send the Shockmaster through the wall, he will crash through both dry wall and studs, though his purple glitter helmet might come off in the process.
First big mistake is you didn’t put it on yourself until it beeped then chuckled a little bit.
It has to be calibrated. Did your husband point it at himself first?
I haven't seen anyone mention but you may have aluminum studs.
There’s a possibility that you have 2x2 studs instead of 2x4 and have electrical wire running up it
I’ve found it’s better to use a magnet. Wall thickness among other things can give false readings. A magnet will always just stick on a screw
Can't wait to see the result of what you are putting up once you find it.
Hold it against the wall first, then push the button.
I just saw this and didn't read any of the previous comments. I know that you're getting schooled though. While we are at it, you should probably smile more.
It's not a sophisticated tool, really. You have to use it in a specific way. Moving it around like that messes it up.
Get a level and make a light pencil line at the height you want to hang your item. Use that centre hole to view and start at on end of your line. Press and hold down the button and go slowly along the line. It will flash, then beep. Mark that spot. That is one edge of the stud. Do the same from the other direction.
If you do this, it will give you both sides of the stud, and you drill in the middle of those dots. I recommend that you measure along the floor and mark the closest interval of 16 inches from an exterior wall.
You need to move faster and not up and down.
The mistake you are making is that you are not using a magnetic stud finder.
Do you live by large power lines?
In my experience, what you're doing wrong is assuming the stud finder will be at all helpful.
I check for the nails in the baseboard, they're usually in the studs.
Hold the unit vertically (don’t twist). Place on wall. Push and hold button. Slide left or right slowly.
lmao
Hand it to the person filming. Let them do it. You tried. You really did.
I have a really nice Franklin sensors model, but I almost always reach for the much cheaper model with the magnets
Get a finishing nail and start poking little holes. If you can't cover the holes with whatever you're putting up you can gently tap the hole flat with a hammer and then cover it with toothpaste.
- Place on space between studs.
- Turn it on.
- Move to the right or left until you get a hit- mark the point where it starts to beep.
- Repeat on the other side of the stud, moving inward, mark when it beeps. Distance between marks should be about 1.75 inches (width of a stud).
Repeat the above at a few different heights of the wall, just to avoid any noise and to get consistent vertical spacing.
If it looks like the stud is 2.5 inches wide, then it’s sistered (two studs next to each other). This happens commonly around fireplaces and windows. In the case of sisters, pick one of the studs and mount into it, don’t try to mount anything between the sisters.
Always aim for center of the stud when mounting, which should be the midpoint of your marks.
Most studs are 16” or so from one another- think that is US standard anyway. So you should verify your stud’s position by identifying neighboring studs. Build confidence in what is behind your walls before you drill. You should be able to visualize how the studs are mapped out.
Uh— stuff usually doesn’t pass through cutouts in studs, but there’s a possibility you can hit something depending on how your home is constructed. Always drill a small pilot hole before committing. The shavings should just be paint, drywall, and wood. If you don’t get resistance or wood shavings, you missed the stud!
Always drill appropriately sized holes for your screws. Don’t make them too small. I always used to make them too small…
Good luck.
Gave up on these things 30 years ago…the best ones I found to use after many models is a simple magnetic stud finder. For wood studs it finds the nail or screw heads that holds the sheet rock and of course if they are metal studs it works even better and there only like $5
If you know anyone with a thermal camera, that works superwell too.
These don’t work on lath & plaster with clap boards. I gotta knock
Start it on the wall, not in the air.
Static charge.
Put your other hand onto the wall while using the detector.
No sewer lines or water potentially in there right?
Place it on the wall then press and hold the button to calibrate. Should be when it’s done. then move side to side. Studs are typically 16 inches a part center to center (this is not always the case especially if you’re in an older home) so a good way to double check that you’re actually detecting studs is to measure your marks. If it’s close to 16 inches you’ve probably successfully located them.
There is an android app named Metal Detector. Best stud finder I've ever used. Put something metal up to your phone to figure out exactly where the sensor is.
Using a stud finder is what your doing wrong they are anscam
Babe. Wake up. New ouija board dropped
You forgot to point it at yourself first, going "oppa, found one!". Very important step.
Oops, all stud
Use a magnet, you can feel where the Sheetrock screws are
No, you can certainly nail stuff to that wall. Turn it off. Wait 120 seconds. Place ii 3 inches away from the doorframe or a window against the wall and turn it back on. Don’t move it immediately when you do. Give a few ticks. Most of them will have a little green light that will blink when it’s ready.
Idk what u doin but can u not :|
It took a while for me to get used to this particular stud finder so I won’t be surprised if it just doesn’t work anymore.
Start it when its placed on the wall, to see if that makes a difference
To hold the stud sensor, place your thumb on one side of
the stud sensor, your pointer finger and your palm over the
center of the stud sensor, and the rest of your fingers on
the same hand on the other side of the stud sensor (Figure
C ).
- Position the stud sensor flat against the wall and parallel
to a door or window on the same wall, which give you an
indication of how the studs are positioned behind the wall.
- Without moving the stud sensor, use your pointer finger
to press and hold until all the LEDs (except the green
Power LED) turn off (1 sec)
- read the manual -
Get a magnetic stud finder, I was too dumb for these too
Just Google how to use a stud finder.
Mine, of a different brand, tells me to only move horizontally and vertically
Put it on the wall, it'll beep. Move left or right gently. And move back. Eventually the thing will tune in. Then after that try up and down. More and more it should logically show you where studs or electricity it.
Don't move it randomly or in circles. Let it calibrate on a horizontal and vertical axis, and only check small areas.
Try turning off the nearby lights and unplugging the TV, maybe? AC detectors can be finicky.
If it's a recent-ish home you should be safe to drill into the stud regardless ― in the unlikely event that you drill at a spot where wires go through the stud, there should be little protective steel nail plates placed over any wiring.
Everyone knows the first thing you have to do is place it on yourself and say found it. That’s the rule
Batteries. Also depending on what's behind the wall reflections will play hell with stud finders
Had a device like this (Not Dewalt though). Returned it back to seller because it was trash. Actually performed a test to figure out if it could do anything. Turns out the readings were completely random trash. I do my job for 18 years and never seen anyone with an actual functional reasonably priced stud/cable detector that doesn't lie.
It’s because you didn’t put it on your self first and said “found one”
Did it come with instructions?
They sell magnet stud finders. Literally like a $10 strong magnet. I used one of these in the video for a few days before I gave up. I’ve been using the magnet to do alllll my house projects over the last 6 years and have never once been wrong about a stud. It just finds the nails that hold up the drywall under the “mud.” Home Depot Magnetic Stud Finder.
Ok we had the exact same issue, turns out our century home was build like a brick shit house and was completely boarded with 2x4s under the drywall making everything a stud, so we could never get stud finders to work. We found out during a Reno, not sure how you might find out if that’s what you have going on too but I think a lot of older houses have that.
The absolute best stud finder is a magnetic one. They have these little pop sockets which are amazing.
Similar thing happened to me. If this is a wall that has some sort of fire rated insulation, it may actually be electrified. In my case a loose wire from a light switch was touching the metal paper part of the insulation and electrifying the entire wall with a mild charge.
Edit to add that at first I assumed it was a broken stud finder but when I started drilling I got a shock. The charge was so mild that I only got shocked because I was barefoot. I tried it with shoes on and no shock.
Read instructions.
Stud finders can be hit or miss. Ones like that one in the video are definitely a miss. They make it more complicated than it has to be.
Return that stud finder and get one that has center and edge detection.
Move slowly left and right in a straight line while keeping it flush against the wall.
Most internal studs are 16” apart. Once you find one, it’s pretty easy to find the rest.
Never rely on one method to find studs. Use several until you’re certain you’ve located the stud.
After practicing you’ll develop a combo of methods that work for you and you’ll hit that stud 99% of the time.
I never understood how those things work. I like using a magnet to find the screws.
You have to press the stud finder against your chest, switch on, and when it beeps, say, "It's working!" Then your wife gives you The Look.
knock to find the studs
use strong magnet to locate drywall screws in said stud
drill as slow as possible with the thinnest bit.
put in a piece of hard wire to poke around for obstructions
if free of pipes and electrical wire, then widen hole and insert scope
push the button AFTER you have made contact with the wall.
Could be mesh plaster with a bad ground. Don't trust stud detectors flat out or you may screw into a copper pipe someday.
what else should you use before removing the dry wall then?
If you’re removing drywall, there’s no need for a stud finder. It’s basically using your brain and not plunging the blade of whatever tool you’re using past the thickness of the drywall. Residential drywall is usually 1/2”.
Many small holes
Not enough holes; more holes..
Stop moving it diagonally. Put it on the wall - and THEN you activate and THEN love either horizontally OR vertically but NOT both.
I have never been able to get a stud finder to work. Maybe that should have been my first clue about being trans.
But I recently got a "Stud Buddy." Which is basically just a strong rare earth magnet in a plastic housing. I was skeptical at first because I was looking for a stud behind thick stucco.
I thought I felt a slight pull when I was running it over the stucco. When I took my hand away, the magnetism was juuust enough to keep it suspended.
I think I found something like a Simpson strong tie, because there's definitely no water pipes behind there & the little tiny drill bit I was using for a pilot hole hits something solid & just stops at a certain point. But I was just really impressed that the magnet was strong enough to still find metal through stucco.
Women ….
My house does the same, there’s a metallic enclosement around the insulation in our walls.
A magnet and a tape measure is all I’ve ever used, if there is an electrical outlet in the wall there will be a stud on one side of it, use the magnet to find which side, then measure over 16 inches and use the magnet again to find that stud
Unless that outlet was added with an old work box at some point.
Just use a magnet, it will find the heads of screws very quickly and you will find studs with accuracy and speed.
In my experience, stud finders are not as reliable as knocking on the wall to find the studs. And there won’t be wiring where there are studs.
I hate that fucking thing. Throw it out and use the cheap ones that come with furniture. Theyre better than that anyways
I bought one of those cheap studfinders too, never had much luck with it but it works in a pinch.
Knock on the wall. A low hollow sound is no stud and a higher pitched sound means something is underneath. Studs are generally placed 18” apart. Don’t do it near a corner because they often have studs closer together within that 18”.
I start from the corner bc I know there are studs there. Then I go out about 18" from the last corner stud and see if I can find another one, and so on.
16", not 18". 16 x 3 = 48. A sheet of plywood is 48" wide.
Yep. Sorry. My mistake.
Using a stud finder in the first place.
Cannot say for certain, so please consult the manual... but most devices need to be on the wall when you activate them to calibrate to wall thickness. Try placing on the wall, then activating.
And not over a stud when calibrating.
How would you know where the studs aren’t, before you’ve used the stud finder?
Edit: Thanks for replying people. No need to though. It was a tongue in cheek comment.
Hopefully the answers are useful for others though.
knuckle knock.
Why do you need a stud finder then?
Gives you a more precise idea of where the stud is. Also, most of the wall doesn't have studs so odds are good you won't hit a stud just slapping it against the wall. You can usually tell if you have because the stud finder won't act right.
So your husband can run it over his chest and grin.
That action is in the instruction book. We don’t want to. We have to.
Because dating is hard enough in the age of Tinder and AI chat bots.
I have a fancy one that finds the middle of a stud. Makes sure your not drilling into an edge.
Link? Mine just finds metal magnet version of stud finder basically got a trust my drywall guys...
Even cheap ones have had it for a long time: https://www.amazon.com/Stud-Finder-Wall-Scanner-Microprocessor/dp/B0DSJ29XV
The one in OP's video does center detection too, though it's less obvious. It's the little orange lights.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zircon-StudSensor-HD70-Stud-Finder-66229/205224475
It’s very easy to tell where a stud isn’t. Infinity harder to locate the center of a stud
It’s a good reminder for myself
How else am I going to find myself
Could also just go above a wall outlet since they are usually attached on the side of a stud, and not directly over it
Could probably start 6 inches away from that opening. There’s going to be a stud there and the next one will be 16 inches on center away
What he said
can you use a knuckle head?
Thats what they call me!
If you start ON a stud, then move off, most stud finders will error or alarm. Move left or right and start again.
Left or right is the key. Do it multiple times and you should be able to tell where stud starts on each side. Also easy way to tell where stud is not is by knocking on the wall left and right and you should be able to tell where sound is most hollow.
Try a few different spots around the same area. There's usually 14.5 " of open back wall and 1.5" of stud. So you'll find the hollow portion pretty quickly.
Studs properly done 16” on center. Use a measuring tape and a finder but find one on center and measure over and check there and stop moving in a fiddle circle way.
The easiest way is to find an electrical box, directly to the left or right is a stud. More that 4 “ away from the box is unlikely to be a stud.
If you calibrate it over the stud the readings are utterly useless and it will be very obvious that you aren’t getting any useful info from it.
Just move it to a new spot and start over and it will work
My experience is when you happen to calibrate on a stud and then start the stud finding process and find zero studs in a fair distance, like "there should be a stud by now", I will recalibrate in a different spot.
Trial and error
When you activate it against the wall, then move it at least 16 inches left or right and it still hasn’t registered anything, then you assume it was on a stud when you activated it. Start again a little to the right or left of where you previously started.
The missile knows where it is at all times. It knows this because it knows where it isn't, by subtracting where it is, from where it isn't, or where it isn't, from where it is, whichever is greater, it obtains a difference, or deviation. The guidance sub-system uses deviations to generate corrective commands to drive the missile from a position where it is, to a position where it isn't, and arriving at a position where it wasn't, it now is. Consequently, the position where it is, is now the position that it wasn't, and it follows that the position where it was, is now the position that it isn't. In the event of the position that it is in is not the position that it wasn't, the system has required a variation. The variation being the difference between where the missile is, and where it wasn't. If variation is considered to be a significant factor, it too, may be corrected by the GEA. However, the missile must also know where it was. The missile guidance computance scenario works as follows: Because a variation has modified some of the information the missile has obtained, it is not sure just where it is, however it is sure where it isn't, within reason, and it knows where it was. It now subracts where it should be, from where it wasn't, or vice versa. By differentiating this from the algebraic sum og where it shouldn't be, and where it was. It is able to obtain a deviation, and a variation, which is called "air".
There will be a stud at the edge of the fireplace and 16 inches on center after that. Usually for a fireplace insert, there will be two studs side by side, and a fire block somewhere over the fireplace between the studs.
It’s similar with wall outlets and switches. In your case place the stud finder about 6!inches from the edge of the fireplace and turn it on. Wait a couple of seconds and slowly move it towards the edge of the fireplace
Besides knocking. Pick a spot and test till you find a stud. Go 6” in another direction and check if you find the same stud. If the don’t match then one of those you calibrated on a stud.
I just go 6-10inch away from a known stud location. I.e. light switch, outlet, door/window frame etc.
These two comments are the correct answer. As the saying goes: measure twice, cut once. Best to be sure before any drilling or hardware punctures the wall. Also, be careful of any plumbing lines if you know there is a sink/bathroom sharing the wall
Pretty sure they all (at least the basic homeowner available ones) say that. I'm very curious why they thought it would work starting mid-air.
So it won't find a stud if I just point it at myself? ✌️😜
Absolutely not
I cannot say for certain, so I'm gonna go with "nah."
That’s how you test it
Right indeed! If it doesn't indicate a stud, then it's working perfectly, even if the batteries are removed. 🤣
Not understanding how a stud finder works would lead to thinking you can just turn it on whenever.
My stud finder doesn't need to be turned on.
Um, wait, I didn't mean it like it sounded. LOL! I have the old fashion kind.
I was trying to be nice. But I'm over that. Clearly OP shouldn't be thinking about doing whatever it is they're thinking about doing, if they can't even operate a basic piece of equipment.
This right here ☝🏼!!
Yup. Gotta be on the wall. And you have to try several times.
Exactly right. That establishes a baseline for the scanner to go by.
This. Move left to right or vice versa not up and down.