Justrolledintotheshop
Kinda impressive
Didn't leak
Discussion
Torque to yield
*SNAP!*
Yeah, it yielt alright...
Based on my experience this looks like it’s for an American car. If that’s true I’m more impressed the cheap oil pan didn’t strip out from all that over tightening
Ford 3.5 na
So a truck, makes sense why it was over tightened
Focus has the same plug
Crown Vic too
Most GM products as well.
These plugs are designed to stretch before the pan strips. I never ever replace these with an aftermarket plug for that reason. Lots of pans have been saved by these
Don’t worry, Ford fixed this. You get a plastic oil pan now with a fragile doohickey you twist out. Ideally, you want to change the whole pan each oil change.
We had one that we did every other oil change till he traded it off
Which is such a wildly different approach vs plastic oil pans. Neat how you can have designers come to such very different solutions.
Someone used the bolt stretcher!
Told you the shop needed to buy one!
I've got like 3 of these in my box. Ford 3.5 by chance?
Yep, explorer
I’ve seen em too on smaller ecoboosts. Definition of Chinese pot metal bolt.
You see a bolt that stretched this much without breaking, and think it's poor quality?
A bolt made of crap metal would have snapped or stripped after maybe 20nm, this is likely good material that's been cranked tight until it wouldn't go anymore
Yeah that’s a pretty soft bolt to stretch before the rubber gasket gets torn or pan strips.
It’s probably intentionally soft to yield before the pan does. I like Hondas aluminum crush washers better. A new drain plug is a couple dollars more than a 5 cent washer.
Edit: can’t say I’ve found one impossibly tight before either. I get the impression it’s more about going 10lbs over a few too many times.
Exactly my thoughts, cheap metal would be brittle and would give out, whereas this is likely intended to stretch as you say
It's amazing how different materials are used for different purposes, sometimes just to protect something. My Audi has aluminium upper arms on the suspension, and I can't remember the details exactly but they use something like steel bolts because mixed metal corrosion on those two materials causes them to bond together so they can never rust out, but it means you either need a special, and expensive, tool or to drill them out when the arms need replacing
I still think it’s a cheap stainless and a bandaid fix to a problem that doesn’t need to exist. Hondas crush washers are great. I’m not sure a cheaper steel would necessarily be harder, hardness over brittleness is a process.
Dissimilar metal corrosion is the devils work. I’d rather just deal with rust in that situation.
heat treatment is what hardens/softens metals. even good quality steel can be made softer if wanted. has nothing to do with the "quality" of the metal
That’s my point. Annealing is (in my very limited experience with carbon steels) far cheaper and easier than heat treatment.
Those Honda drain plugs I keep mentioning are quite hard. They are heat treated. They cost more than one of these coarse thread soft bolts. They don’t stretch and require some serious user error to round. If you use the correct crush washer the pan threads will be fine anywhere south of 80lbs.
Honda engineers in the 90's and early 2000's really over engineered durability into their product and it shows. seems like the current trend of disposable type engines have little room for technicians that don't follow manufacturers specifications.
I’m still looking for an actual write up on it, but I’ve heard this mentioned a couple times.
I’m the early 2000s after the alu pan’s really started rolling out and there were reports that “Honda alu oil pans strip easily”, Honda did some R&D.
They found that the best way to strip a pan is not changing the damn washer. There’s a video that was recently released by AHM showing them taking an air impact to a differential magnet plug. They claim the threads let go after the washer had been ejected at around 100lbs.
I've had a few of these that were impressively tight. They tend to stretch before the threads in the pan give out, but I've had one exception.
How much torque? ...all of it
Ugged it’s last dugga
And it didnt snap either?!
Grower vs shower.
Still some meat left on those bones.
ugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga...
needs a little more ugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga,dugga...
4 foot breaker bar stand on it until its tight and then slap it and say that's not going anywhere
What's more impressive is you got that b out of there without damaging it.
Stretched it right? Oof looks like they used too many ugga duggas tightening it previously XD
Almost 1 to many ugga duggas
This is the perfect example of bolt strench, god damn
Stretch bolt?
From an engineering perspective this is interesting because it shows the clamp load is reacted by the first few sets of threads that deformed, the later threads at the end of the bolt were not taking the load.
But yeah shocked it didn't strip or leak...
Aren’t the threads on the end made at shallower angle to try and keep from cross threading? Or are you referring to the ones below that shallow ones?
They get like that when you talk dirty to them.
Appears it was tightened to one 1/4 turn before it snaps, looks about perfect
Amateurs! Tighten until you hear a pop, then back it off 1/4 turn
good old fashion grade 3.3 bolts
looks like a penis
That's overtorqued
Nah, it's still got at least one ugga left in it.
My dad would disagree.
"Tighten until it goes slack and then back off a quarter turn"
Not tight enough.
If it's still turning then keep tightening, said that guy.
When you forgot to hit the switch on your impact
Too many ugga duggas
This is why I insist on only using Grade 8 drain plugs.
And that's a Chevy. I think. Don't know how it didn't snap.
When I was a rookie tire tech I couldn't remove an oil pan bolt by hand so I used an air impact driver and got a face load of Texas tea
An over torqued fastener is halfway to broken ?
There are some people who don’t believe it’s tight until they use a breaker bar
using metric 'gutentight' would have sufficed here.
Gutentight+270º=perfect.
Crossthread + 720⁰ = Alabamie loctite
Welded = that ain't ever coming out.
Welded but a piece of weld wire sticking out = Theft protection
270º once. Not five times.
Good ol' "German specs".
And all this time I thought it was goes in tight / bless you
Nothing like few gutentites to make it right. German people really know how to crank a good bolt.
Any bolt is torque to yield if you use enough torque.
Tighten until loose, then go back a quarter turn til tight.
"Tight's tight... Too tight's broke."
~ My uncle
Hernia tight.
Torque to yield 3mm bolts