Besides the obvious which is to get rid of the aluminum fitting. Is there anything else you see wrong or could improve? Yes. Hate on it but provide opinions on what works.
Typically, the rear port on the master cylinder in a non-ABS system is for front brakes.
Rear being closest to the booster? If so that’s the way it is. The front goes to the brake proportioning valve.
You have the inline proportioning valve on the front brakes?
Haha. I guess I do. That’s why I am here. Asking. Lol.
All good. It's better to ask than assume. You have essentially two choices for proportioning valves: an inline valve like you have or a block where both lines from the master cylinder go into it and three lines come out: two for the front brakes and one for the rear. The blocks are setup for either front disc/rear drum or front disc/rear disc, based on what you are running.
With your proportioning valve being on the front brakes, you are effectively reducing pressure to the front brakes. This puts more bias to the rear brakes, and will cause the car to get tail-happy when braking. So, you want to put that valve on the line going to the rear brakes so you can adjust the amount of pressure going to them to make sure the rears don't lock up during hard braking.
You also want to reduce the amount of flex line you have in the system. Get NiCopp brake line and only use flex line where needed to account for chassis movement.
That's a good one. Just follow the instructions for getting the brakes dialed in. It's trial and error.
Use solid tubing.
Steel brake hose is better than rubber hose, but not nearly as good as a solid metal line.
By doing it like this, you are adding softness to your pedal. The flexible hose will slightly expand and take away brake pressure that could otherwise go to your brake calipers.
If this were a road car, I would say it's probably fine, but for a race car (at least the brake bias control belongs on something that is just used on track), it's not ideal.
Agreed. Rule of thumb is minimal flex hose braided or not.