projectcar
My new project. 96 Ram with a 12v + NV4500.
So, picked this truck up last weekend for about 4,500$ with a touch over 200k miles on it.
12v Cummins. Bosch P-Pump. NV4500 5-speed. 2WD.
Nothing overly fancy about it. However, I have pretty big plans for it.
For starters.... 12v cummins (and early 24v) has this lovely thing known as the killer dowel pin. Essentially, there is a dowel pin behind the timing cover, which may potentially become loose. And when this happens, it turns your turbo-diesel into an expensive paperweight.
So- this is first priority.
To start..... it needs a bit more power. The factory 160rwhp/180chp, is not cutting it. To address this.... I have a few goodies from powerdrivendiesel in the mail.
- AFC Live
- AFC Springs
- Governer Springs
- Fuel plate delete (per AFC live install).
- Power Driven's Boost Controller - Will be setting the boost at 35lbs. This is the limit of the stock HX35.
Those, mods should take the stock 180hp, up to somewhere between 300-400hp. The governer spring will allow the engine to make power past 2300, which will vastly improve the ability to pull onto a busy road.
Now- because, tweaking anything related to fuel or boost, without proper visability is a huge no-no....
A full assortment of Glowshift gauges is sitting in my garage to display EGTs, Boost, and Fuel. This will ensure I don't melt anything, or spin the turbo into orbit.
Exhaust.
I planned on swapping the muffler out last night, as it already had a 4" muffler on it. BUT.... I realized..... the exhaust was more like this:
4" from turbo -> 3".
3" -> 4" adapter to muffler.
4" muffler -> 3" pipe
3" pipe -> 4" tip.
And realized..... I need to redo the entire exhaust. So, will be going full 4" or 5" soon enough.
Until then though, it sounds pretty nice with a straight pipe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFbrzjkzvkM
Interior
So- the seats, are fantastic. Power seats, in great condition.
However, the dash is non-existance. The plastic used in these years was not UV resistant... and is EXTREMELY brittle. It breaks easier then a toothpick.
As such, there is not much left here.
A full factory-style replacement would run over a grand. Junkyard is not an option here, since all of the factory dashes had this issue!
The plan here, is to use 16ga sheet metal and build a sheetmetal dash. I will be using a factory cluster bezel though. But, the top of the dash, and the missing parts on the right, will all be 16ga cold-rolled steel.
Other-
While hard to see- there is a thick steel plate sitting in the bed, with a gooseneck hitch on it. I will be bolting this directly to the frame, and it will sit under the bed, with an access hatch.
When not pulling a gooseneck, the entire bed can be used as normal. When a gooseneck is needed, I can remove the cover, and voila. A gooseneck.
I will also be fabricating a steel bumper. I have thick steel tube to go from the frame to the bumper, and steel c-channel for the bumper. Still, determining exactly how I want to build it.
Anyways- thats my new project. More to come.
Discussion
You need to keep a few headlight switch spares.
Dual Headlight relays are the answer. Brighter lights and practically zero draw though the headlight switch.
Wait- the factory setup doesn't use a relay, and runs the current through the switch??
Sheesh, thats no bueno.
I don't know about the newer ones but my '92 Cummins, Yes they do.
I'll certainly address that, if that is the case. Thanks for the heads up.
If- they break frequently- I will instead use a toggle switch like I did for my old dash build.
https://xtremeownage.com/2019/04/26/dash-fabrication-part-3/
(Switches- on bottom-left)
The- one I will be building for this- will be a lot prettier though. I have access to a big metal brake and plasma table which will make a much prettier end result.
The timing case boltsfalling out are just as or more deadly than the KDP. While you got the front cover off remove each bolt one by one, clean the threads and locate them. If the KDP is loose remove it, if not stake it or make a sheet metal tab and cover it.
I have a tab which will ensure it can't back out.
Will- ensure some red loctite is put back on the timing cover bolts, didn't even consider those.
They probably damaged more motors than the dowel pin ever did.
Oh, I should mention, I have ICE COLD AC working too.
While- most would look at the dash, and would assume, there is no AC, Radio, etc....
There is indeed, ice cold AC. The radio was there, but, removed as the factory speakers are blown to the point where I could barely understand what song was on the radio. This- will get reworked too.
A final note- for those who don't know- this is a FULLY MECHANICAL ENGINE. there is no computer. No PCM. The only wires NEEDED for this engine to run, are for the starter, and the fuel shutoff selenoid. The other wires seen, are for sensors. The AFC unit on the back of the P-Pump controls most aspects of this engine. Its a very simple setup.
Edit- also, forgot to mention, when fixing the KDP- I will be advancing the fuel injection timing from the stock 14 degrees, up to 18 degrees. This will give a boost in power, and fuel economy.
Edit- another note- I did originally buy this truck to swap the engine into the 87 square body 3/4 4x4 surburban you may be able to see in the background- but, after driving it, I instead changed my mind to fix the truck up a bit and drive it instead.